Monday, August 13, 2007

A couple of FAs


James, Derek and Gomez went to Dry Valley on Sunday. The weather was perfect and Dry Valley always offers a different type of experience to the other fields. The day started well with Gomez encountering one of his spirit-creatures which inspired him for the rest of the day. A new dyno to do was then located and Gomez channeled his spirit-creature to produce Hawkwind. A wild ride and not too tricky at about V6. James and Derek also quickly sent the problem. No one succeeded on the project to the left, but ay least the holds are clean now...

Cosmic Energy was then attacked. With James getting a fuss free ascent (besides Gomez kneeing him in the head when spotting, that'll teach him to make faster progress than Gomez), Derek spouting beta and Gomez consistently falling off.

Later in the day Derek sent the eight year project in the valley near Sound of Silence (JP's originally?) possibly known as Angelfire. Unfortunately all that was required was some key beta and Derek said it wasn't that hard. Just how hard that is we don't know. He seemed disappointed...

It sure is a long walk back to the car!

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Sending Blizzard

Braving the rain and snow, Derek 'The Dispatcher' Thatcher and James 'Space Cowboy' Morris had a good but brief day at Flock today. Derek did Superman second go(commenting that V11 seemed like a dubious grade). They both did a 'proper' sit start to New Dawn Fades. James did the sit to Captain Contact V9 in awesome dynamic style. To finish Derek sent a big line he brushed last weekend on the uphill side of the large boulder next to Captain Sassypants. It is currently unnamed and ungraded. Then it snowed.

New V11 at Flock Hill



Pete the Radness has sent the famed project Sharma's Prow,which now belongs to Pete and is called Interstellar Overdrive and is fat at V11. Good job Pete! In case you were all wondering, yes, he did campus it.

In other news James Morris managed a stylish repeat of a recent Pete problem Lost for Words V9. James didn't like the mono so much so he moved off the sloper... well you would wouldn't you?

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Signing Out

Some of you may have noticed that updates on this blog have come to a screaming halt. This is not because I have become even more slack than usual, but becuase I no longer reside in New Zealand. I have chosen to undertake a wee climbing trip around the world and will be stopping off in places such as Thailand, UK, Switzerland, France, and Spain.

If anyone is keen to take over the administraion of this blog to update it with new problems and updates I would be more than happy to hand it over. If this sounds like you then please send me an email at crankage@gmail.com

Au revoir!

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Flock Hill Guide

The locations of these boulders are VERY ROUGH and ment only as a starting point for you to look for the problems. At some stage I hope to provide a map with slightly better descriptions, but for the moment please bear with me...

ClimbGradeRatingLocation
SupermanV11up and left of the trifecta boulder


ClimbGradeRatingLocation
Apollo 10V10upper bell-boulder gully
Camp AmericaV10mid bell boulder gully
Girl PowerV10
Boulders betwen Flock Hill & Dry Valley
Vapour TrailV10split apple field


ClimbGradeRatingLocation
Hipster(ss)V9left of the bell boulder
Mayan's Runnels
V9
-
Lower trifector gully
Prince Tui Teka
V9
Boulder beside hundred times slab


ClimbGradeRatingLocation
Captain Contact(ss)V8uh...captain contact gully
Captain NemoV8
Split Apple Field
CosmonautV8Split Apple Field
Disconnect Extra
V8mid-left of trifecta gully
HipsterV8left of the bell boulder
HumphV8
-
upper bell boulder gully
Ice AgeV8left of split apple field
MobeousV8
lower-left from trifector gully
Porky
V8
Mid trifector gully on this boulder
Psychic Tealady
V8upper bell boulder gully
Psycho Killer
V8
-
Beside hundred times slab
Super ShacktiV8-mid bell boulder gully
Sunset AreteV8right of bell boulder
Stoneworks
V8mid bell boulder gully
The RootsV8
mid-right bell boulder gully
The VandalV8
lower-left from trifector gully
unnamedV8upper-left split apple field on this boulder


ClimbGradeRatingLocation
Captain ContactV7uh...captain contact gully
JP's Split Apple Dyno (ss)V7lower split apple field
Sunset Showdown
V7
Bottom of trifector gully
unnamedV7mid-left of bell boulder gully
unnamedV7-split apple field on the captain nemo boulder
unnamedV7split apple field on the captain nemo boulder
unnamedV7lower bell boulder gully on the far left of this boulder
unnamedV7lower bell boulder gully on this boulder


ClimbGradeRatingLocation
Mullet Arete
V6mid-left of trifecta gully
Raven The Craft
V6
Beside hundred times slab
UnderworldV6mid-left of bell boulder gully
unnamedV6upper-right split apple field on this boulder
unnamedV6split apple field


ClimbGradeRatingLocation
Boy Power V5
Same boulder as Girl Power

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Preliminary NBS Results

While Jamie chills for a couple of days to recover from the madhouse of events that was the National Bouldering Series 2007, I thought I'd post a few of the results from the final round. Disclaimer: These results are by no means complete and may not even be totally accurate. They are composed from a vague memory that was partially distorted from drinking beer and not really paying attention at the time. I apologise in advance for any mistakes.

The day went off without any hiccups and a great time was had by all. Despite high temps and less than ideal conditions some managed to still tick off a few of the harder problems before the day came to an end. Despite Connie and Andrea "Jellybean" Barrueto both starting the comp around lunchtime, they both still crushed the opposition in the women's recreational division sending 51 problems each. The women's expert division was easily won by Mayan with Terezka coming in at second place. As for the men's expert division, Jan was thwarted from a clean sweep of the series due to local knowledge coming up trumps on the day. The category was won by, well...me, with Jan coming in at second place. Even with spending most of the day filming Stuart Kurth pulled out several V8 and V9 flashes, only put 5 climbs on his scorecard and still managed to secure third place. Nice one bro!

As for the series results, it was czeck city on the highest part of the podium as Yan and Terezka both won the overall expert Division. Liz came in second in the female expert, while Myself and James Morris placed second and third in the men's.

I'd also like to give a big shout out to Jamie, who's early mornings and weekends have been sacrificed for the past few months so we can all take part in the best outdoor competition in the country. Good job!!!

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Spittle Hill NBS Comp, Now with 20% more boulders!

...or it would be if Jamie could cram in all the problems he wanted to. Orignally Jamie came up with a list of 170, but wittled this down to a total of 150 quality problems for your climbing pleasure.

The competition starts at 10am, finishes at 3pm, and has categories for all ranges of abilities. As there isn't too much shade at the hill don't forget your sunscreen and plenty of water!

There are also t-shirts for sale for a mere $35, but don't bring your eftpos or credit cards.

So don't miss out on New Zealands premiere 2007 outdoor bouldering event. Check out the official NBS site for more details. See you there!


Jamie (from England) on Beautiful Edges (V4).