Foreign Foto's

I've just been tipped off by one Simon 'Cragrat' Middlemass about a photo gallery that Cooper Roberts has compiled on www.climbing.com after his trip here last year. There are 32 photo's mostly featuring Bati, Randy (I think) and a few other dudes. Not too many of the photo's are particularly stellar, but it's worth a look none the less. You can check it out here.

A Climber on Achilles Last Stand (V12) - Photo by Cooper Roberts.

Flock Hill is a No Go

Flock Hill is now closed until the December 25th for lambing as stated by the land owner Mark Fraundorfer. So don't go up there or else!

For more info please refer to my previous post.

Kura Täwhiti Planting Day

On November 11th there will be a planting day at Castle Hill Basin with a number of local user groups (i.e climbers and the like) attending. I would like to encourage anyone interested to attend. See the email below:

Hi there,

As you will know DOC has been undertaking some restoration planting atvarious sites within the Kura Täwhiti Conservation Area. This year we have more plants to put in place and I think it would be an ideal opportunity to get people with various interests in the reserve together.

The proposal is to co-ordinate a joint planting day on Saturday the 11th of November. The groups/organisations invited to assist are climbers, Rünanga and Ngai Tahu, Castle Hill Community and DOC.

The idea [at this stage] is to gather at the reserve entrance at 10am on the 11th. There we would present an introduction to the day, and then proceed into the reserve. We hope then to be able to provide an overview of the importance of the reserve from the Rünanga perspective and would like a representative from the climbers to do likewise.

We'll then get along to the planting area[s] and get a briefing on this programme. If we have a few people - we'll probably try and run some interp tours - so that while some are planting - others are getting a guided walk round the rocks - with a special focus on the maori values of the site.

This is all draft and if you have some suggestions for the running of the day / climber input etc - please feel free to let me know.
We'll put on a BBQ lunch - pretty simple stuff. Plan for around 4 - 5 hrs of planting and then a wind up and travel home.

I'd like your comments and an indication of interest / numbers

Look forward to catching up with you

Best wishes

Wayne Costello

41174 Represent!

Fed up with sending the same old V9's and V10's the 41174 crew (Dave Kopp & John Palmer) flew down for the weekend to flex their pipes on a few of flock hills classic hard lines.

Me on Condor (V7).

The weekend began by warming up at the bell bouder. We stumbled across a cool little sit start that was put up by some British guy called Pete. We spent some time on the problem before unlocking a workable sequence that allowed John and I to send the V8 (which was pretty soft actually). Next we jumped on the problem 3 meters left of Sunset Arete called Condor (V7). John, Seb and myself quickly sent it, while the Dave thought he'd just jump of the top a bunch and see how big of a crater he could put in the ground. ;-)

Then came the business end of the day - Sunset Arete (V8). This is a super classic line that involves an overhanging prow, some of the best moves you'll ever find, and lots of them. It's a problem that Dave, JP, and I had wanted to do for a along time, but due to the quantity of boulder mats needed, we'd never gotten round to it. Seb slowly dished out the beta as we all got increasingly higher. Half an hour later and...BOOM-SHACKA-LAKA! I got the tick! Quickly in toe, was Seb, Dave, and after a couple of cookie times, JP, giving us the team send on one of the best V8's in the basin.

Sebastian checking out Dave's booty on Sunset Arete (V8)

Not wasting any time JP then methodically moved on to the next climbs on his list and quickly dispatched Cartman (V8) and The Roots (V8). After pottering around on Mobeous (V8) for a while Dave and I headed up to the top of the field to meet up with the others. We then had a play on Porky (V8) which involves a campus to a throw to a runnel. JP unlocked a workable sequence on this which we used to thrash our self with for a while. Just after Seb gave us a demo I used my last layer of skin to top it out. I used to think this problem was rubbish, but now that I've finally done it...it's not so bad. ;-)

The plan on Sunday was to head out and deal to some unfinished business, but despite the warnings from some Japanese boulderers in Springfield we drove all the way to Lake Lyndon in the pouring rain before we did a prompt about turn (with the help of one handbrake) and returned to Christchurch. The only good thing about the ride out there and back is that we were privileged enough to to be entertained by JP's very impressive Mexican gansta impression of Cypress Hill for most of the trip back. Word.

Gallery

A bit of rock porn for your viewing please as kindly donated by Sebastian Lowensteijn

Lost Child

On Saturday a decent crew consisting of Pete "former teen star" Alison, Jamie "my car just blew up" Vinton-Boot, Rachael "country music rules" Williams, James "I think I'll send a V9 today" Morris, and myself headed to Quantum field for a short sharp session of sendage.

After warming up at the horseshoe boulder we promptly started on a classic circut of V6's and V7's including One Move Boulder, Brine, Gripper, Kung-fu Mojo, Growler, and Cold Turkey. Quite wrapped about the number of ticks quickly accumulated I convinced the crew to jump on The Outcast (V8). While we were playing on this we heard a non-human-like noise that could best be described as a wailing banshee. "What the f**k was that!?", I loudly exclaimed. Pete instantly starting to wet himself with laughter as he was looking right at the source of the noise which was coming from an old Chinese lady (who was just out of my sight)! She seemed to be calling out for a lost child (either that or trying to find a mate!). It was one of the weirdest noises I've ever heard come out of a human esophagus. After we re-composed ourselves a handful more attempts that were getting me increasingly closer finally lead to the send. Rad!

With even more confidence now we tried to defeat some more old foes such as Monkey and the Magic Peach (V8), Inositol (V8), and Misfit(V7) The team's confidence quickly got shattered as we all repeatedly got the backhand on all three problems.

Not to be discouraged some time was then spent on Everythings Gone Green(V10), and Pete showed us a new problem he put up to the left of it called Boson(V7) which is a jump-start/one arm pull-up to some bad slopers then topping out over the adjacent boulder.

We met up with James later who was gleaming with joy as he had just sent Snake Eyes (V9). Nice one bro!

Jamie on The Outcast(V8)

Dry Valley Guide

Work in progress...

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Rad Overhanging Prow	V9		top of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Cosmic Energy	V8		top of field
Singular Objective	V8		top of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Dub	V7		top of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
unnamed	V6		adjacent to Singular Objective
Vision	V6		lower-right of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Lepton Monkey	V5		mid-right of field

Weekend Wickedness

Hard bouldering was all on this weekend and Flock Hill was where it was at. We were privileged to be joined by Wellington strong man John Palmer for a weekend of wickedness.

After warming up on a Split Apple circuit kindly provided by Sebastian, JP convinced us all to cruise down to Dry Valley to visit some old friends. After about an hour of grunting, swearing, and bad falls, we were about to head back empty handed when JP suggested we try Dub (V7). Several attempts later JP and I both sent the problem and felt slightly better about heading back to Flock. Shortly after JP arrived back he also finally sent Captain Nemo (V8).

Next we moved onto a sit start project, for which the stand start goes at about V8. Sebastian got the F.A last weekend and Pete and I followed in his footsteps this weekend.

Sebastian kung-fooing his way up The Prow Stand Start (V8)

On Sunday we warmed up at the boulders between Flock Hill and Dry Valley. Here you can find a problem called Girl Power (V10) which Pete sent the day before! The problem is basically an overhanging dyno off two opposing side pulls and a bad foot. The crux is pulling off the ground.

Rach styling up a V1 on the boulders between Flock Hill and Dry Valley

Later in the day we moved on to Oblisk (V9). This problem is about the size of a fridge on which you clamp your way up some slopers on either side to gain a mantle top out. Soon after Pete dished out the beta, Seb and JP both sent the problem. Actually, JP sent it twice as the first time round he wasn't happy with a slight grazing of his foot on the mat - RESPECT!

JP on a dab free ascent of Oblisk (V9)

Next we moved on to The Roots (V8). This is another clampy prow well worth doing. We struggled on it for a while with almost every attempt resulting in very audible and very entertaining static shock. Everyone came super close, but no one could bring home the goods. After we had come close to giving up I decided to give it one last good crack and sent the problem. This sparked a bunch more attempts from the team and a bunch more static shocks off rock. Some more time and skin later, Pete returned last thing in the day to use the remaining minutes of sunlight to bust out the problem.

Pete clamping with the utmost determination on The Roots (V8)

Last thing problem for the day was a V6 Dyno off two pockets to a sloper. We all got the team ascent of this, and shortly after Sebastian also sent a V8 arete which was originally put up by Julian Saunders. Due to no one having any idea what this is called we have named it the The Vandal. You can find it just around the corner from Captain Sassy Pants.

Wuthering Heights Development

After most people had already thrashed themselves on Saturday there was an agreeance on Sunday that it was high time we headed back up to Wuthering Heights. If you're sick of getting spanked on the same old problems, or are looking for some first ascents, then this is the place to be.

Pete showing us all his defying gravity on a new sit start called Levitation (V6)

After warming up we chucking our guns into second gear and Derek showed us a problem called Hanso lonzo(V6) which involves a hop to a sloper than some slapping up a small layback. After several attempts I pulled the crux and got to the slabby top. Now, what Derek forgot to mention to me was that they top of this problem was about 7m off the deck and involved a poorly cleaned mossy slab with next to no hand holds bar a small finger crack - Joy! I eventually worked up the courage to top the problem out (even though I could see a very small Jase dragging the mat off to try the next problem). The descent also provided some fun.

After lunch Derek and Pete were hard at work on some new problems that they spied. Pete's involved cranking of a no-handed kneebar to a couple of crimps(V7) while Derek's involved a mantle to dyno (if you're short ;-)) to mantle(V4).

Derek on a new problem(V7) spied by Pete

Towards the afternoon, we found a couple of highballs originally found by Matt Pearson. The first was a 6m high layback to VERY slopey top. This prompted a multi-layered arrangement of about 6 mats. Which took a beating as almost everyone fell from the top. Derek eventually styled his was up to show us how it's done.

Paul braving the top on this V4 highball

Next we set to work on the Death Mantle. Which involved some carefuly foot work to gain a couple of slopers, then chucking your foot over your head and trying not to take too much notice of the 4m between you and your spotters - don't slip!

Death Mantle - part 1

Death Mantle - part 2

In other news, Stu K could be seen up at Flock Hill on sunday dealing to some unfinished business with Captain Sassypants(V8) Nice one Stu!

Wuthering Heights Guide

Work in progress...

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Brutus	V9		Powerful undercling to slopers

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Johnny Mo	V8		Powerful prow

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Bloodlust	V7		Crimps
Origami	V7		Smeary slab
Pete's Kneebar	V7		1 + 1 = ?
The White Line	V7		Slap-foo your way up the arete

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Small Fry	V6		Pull on to slopers

Ancient Arts Arete

Derek on Ancient Arts Arete (V11) at Wuthering Heights.

Not too much news to report from the weekend. Most people were still licking thier wounds from the bouldering/dyno comp at the Roxx the night before. For more info take a look at Stu's report on the nights action.

After a late start Sebastian, Jase and I headed up to the Split Apple field at Flock Hill. After warming up on a few classics we found a bunch of new(ish) problems. Take a look at the Flock Hill Guide for more info. The highlight of the day was some progress by Sebastian on an old prow spied and brushed by JP back in the day that we believe still remains a project. The stand start went at about V8 and the sit start looks like it will go at about V10. Stay tuned for more details...

Rain, hail, and shine

It was raining most of the way out to the hill on Saturday. A lot of the time it can pour down for the entire journey from Christchurch yet clear up a few minutes before arrival. However, this was not to be the case.

We sat in the car for an hour waiting for the rain to clear. I was almost ready to bail, but Sebastian was determined to wait it out as it was the only day he could climb. We decided to go for a walk and see if we could find any dry problems. On the way we knocked on Pete's car to see what he was planning to do. He held up a 40 ounce of whisky with a grin on his face.

We soon bumped into Sefton, Steve, and Stu working on Punkage (V9) and Tricky (V6). It seemed mostly dry so I ran back and grabbed my shoes. Sefton managed to grab a send of Punkage in a handful of goes while Steve repeatedly hucked himself at Tricky until the job was done.

After a couple of hours at Punkage the rain started to subside. Pete could be seen skipping along in the distance to find some dry problems. The 40 ounce was nowhere to be seen...

Later in the day Sefton and I managed to repeat Quantum Mechanics (V7) and then everyone headed down to Crash and Burn (V10) to watch Stu and Sebastian battle on the very committing top moves.

As we started to get pelted again by some precipitation, we headed for the last dry problem at the hill, Fidel Castro (V9). Sebastian quickly repeated and dished out some beta for the rest of us. Although the beta helped, we were simply too weak. We struggled on the problem until the crux hold was saturated from the rain. Time to pull pin and bail...

Flock Hill Access

Flock Hill is the biggest and arguably the best field in the basin. Because of this we must take extra special care to ensure this resource is not taken away from us. Flock hill is NOT public land and climbing there is a privilege, not a right. The land is owned by Mark Fraundorfer and Lloyd Ferguson who have kindly allowed climbers to use Flock Hill as long as we follow a few simple rules. These include:

1. Use the proper access to the land. This means parking at the gate about 1 km down the road from the cave stream car park. Jumping the fence at cave stream IS NOT ALLOWED.


2. Prior permission must be gained before accessing the land. This is done by filling out the details of your visit and signing the provided form acknowledging that you understand the rules on which access is granted.


3. Treat the land with respect. This includes no littering, smoking, and bolting.

Once you agree to the conditions outlined in the form, it needs to be sent to Mark at mrf@wave.co.nz.

Lastly, please note that Flock Hill will be closed from November 1 to December 25 due to lambing - no acceptions.

For more information you can check out Phil's blog at flockhill.blogspot.com.

A beautiful day at Flock Hill.

Castle Hill ticklist

Thanks to Derek, I've got an inital ticklist to hand out. I'm hoping to get descriptions on the location of these problems and maybe even pictures to put together an even more informative and complete ticklist for all the fields. So stay tuned...

In the mean time you can quench your thirst by checking out the initial ticklist.

Jason Whitaker on Psychic Tealady(V8)

Bachelor of Castle Hill

STEP RIGHT UP, STEP RIGHT UP, and start on the path to getting the most prestigious qualification in the country - the Bachelor of Castle Hill.

The BCH is comprised of four parts, each containing harder climbs than the prevous:

1. Prerequisites (compulsary)
2. Majors
3. Honours
4. Masters (thesis required)
   

You can download the course from here.

David Kopp topping out the warm up arete at Flock Hill.

Welcome

Welcome to Castle Hill Bouldering!

This site is intended to spread the good news of The Hill. This includes (but is not limited to) Quantum Field, Spittle Hill, Flock Hill, and Dry Valley. Ideally, I would like to get input from keen local's who have been putting up new problems, finding hidden gems that may have been forgotten, or have simply had a sick sending spree.

If you are keen to contribute either by updating the site or sending me info, then chuck me an email.

Any constructive feeback would also be appreciated.

Enjoy!

Sebastian Loewensteijn pulling hard on Crash and Burn (V10).