Monday, September 18, 2006

Weekend Wickedness

Hard bouldering was all on this weekend and Flock Hill was where it was at. We were privileged to be joined by Wellington strong man John Palmer for a weekend of wickedness.

After warming up on a Split Apple circuit kindly provided by Sebastian, JP convinced us all to cruise down to Dry Valley to visit some old friends. After about an hour of grunting, swearing, and bad falls, we were about to head back empty handed when JP suggested we try Dub (V7). Several attempts later JP and I both sent the problem and felt slightly better about heading back to Flock. Shortly after JP arrived back he also finally sent Captain Nemo (V8).

Next we moved onto a sit start project, for which the stand start goes at about V8. Sebastian got the F.A last weekend and Pete and I followed in his footsteps this weekend.

Sebastian kung-fooing his way up The Prow Stand Start (V8)

On Sunday we warmed up at the boulders between Flock Hill and Dry Valley. Here you can find a problem called Girl Power (V10) which Pete sent the day before! The problem is basically an overhanging dyno off two opposing side pulls and a bad foot. The crux is pulling off the ground.

Rach styling up a V1 on the boulders between Flock Hill and Dry Valley

Later in the day we moved on to Oblisk (V9). This problem is about the size of a fridge on which you clamp your way up some slopers on either side to gain a mantle top out. Soon after Pete dished out the beta, Seb and JP both sent the problem. Actually, JP sent it twice as the first time round he wasn't happy with a slight grazing of his foot on the mat - RESPECT!

JP on a dab free ascent of Oblisk (V9)

Next we moved on to The Roots (V8). This is another clampy prow well worth doing. We struggled on it for a while with almost every attempt resulting in very audible and very entertaining static shock. Everyone came super close, but no one could bring home the goods. After we had come close to giving up I decided to give it one last good crack and sent the problem. This sparked a bunch more attempts from the team and a bunch more static shocks off rock. Some more time and skin later, Pete returned last thing in the day to use the remaining minutes of sunlight to bust out the problem.

Pete clamping with the utmost determination on The Roots (V8)

Last thing problem for the day was a V6 Dyno off two pockets to a sloper. We all got the team ascent of this, and shortly after Sebastian also sent a V8 arete which was originally put up by Julian Saunders. Due to no one having any idea what this is called we have named it the The Vandal. You can find it just around the corner from Captain Sassy Pants.

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hey Buff, this is a really really great climbing blog bro. I keep track of your activities regularly and the style is something to be proud of. The photos especially are dope. Keep it up bro, maybe one day I'll be privileged enough to appear on there!

M@@ack

Buffy said...

Thanks Matt! I've got some more climbs for the Flock Hill guide to put up soon too. Just got to find some time. One day you'll be on here, no doubt. :-)

Anonymous said...

How come Camp America gets 3 stars whens it's a average line and Vapour Trail gets one star when it looks f%#king fantastic, climbs well and which is also a grade harder than Camp?

Buffy said...

I have climbed C.A and think it is a great problem. I haven't climbed V.T, but after watching Seb on it, it seems like one of those problems that looks better than it climbs. Doesn't mean it's not worth doing though. How did you find the moves? At the end of the day the ratings, like grades, are purely subjective and are not written in stone. I could bump it to two stars if enough people think its warranted...

Anonymous said...

vos, you dirty blog slut. keep your comments to 41174 thanks

Anonymous said...

Camp is a nice problem but it isn't in the same league as the best problems at the hill, in fact nowhere near the best. Give it two stars max, it climbs well but looks rangi! It just doesn't compare to The Joker, Crash and Burn, Bio Hazard etc, in quality.

Buffy said...

I agree it isn't a stellar line like some of the other classics. Consider it 'down-rated'. ;-)