Dry Valley Guide

Work in progress...

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Rad Overhanging Prow	V9		top of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Cosmic Energy	V8		top of field
Singular Objective	V8		top of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Dub	V7		top of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
unnamed	V6		adjacent to Singular Objective
Vision	V6		lower-right of field

Climb	Grade	Rating	Location
Lepton Monkey	V5		mid-right of field

Weekend Wickedness

Hard bouldering was all on this weekend and Flock Hill was where it was at. We were privileged to be joined by Wellington strong man John Palmer for a weekend of wickedness.

After warming up on a Split Apple circuit kindly provided by Sebastian, JP convinced us all to cruise down to Dry Valley to visit some old friends. After about an hour of grunting, swearing, and bad falls, we were about to head back empty handed when JP suggested we try Dub (V7). Several attempts later JP and I both sent the problem and felt slightly better about heading back to Flock. Shortly after JP arrived back he also finally sent Captain Nemo (V8).

Next we moved onto a sit start project, for which the stand start goes at about V8. Sebastian got the F.A last weekend and Pete and I followed in his footsteps this weekend.

Sebastian kung-fooing his way up The Prow Stand Start (V8)

On Sunday we warmed up at the boulders between Flock Hill and Dry Valley. Here you can find a problem called Girl Power (V10) which Pete sent the day before! The problem is basically an overhanging dyno off two opposing side pulls and a bad foot. The crux is pulling off the ground.

Rach styling up a V1 on the boulders between Flock Hill and Dry Valley

Later in the day we moved on to Oblisk (V9). This problem is about the size of a fridge on which you clamp your way up some slopers on either side to gain a mantle top out. Soon after Pete dished out the beta, Seb and JP both sent the problem. Actually, JP sent it twice as the first time round he wasn't happy with a slight grazing of his foot on the mat - RESPECT!

JP on a dab free ascent of Oblisk (V9)

Next we moved on to The Roots (V8). This is another clampy prow well worth doing. We struggled on it for a while with almost every attempt resulting in very audible and very entertaining static shock. Everyone came super close, but no one could bring home the goods. After we had come close to giving up I decided to give it one last good crack and sent the problem. This sparked a bunch more attempts from the team and a bunch more static shocks off rock. Some more time and skin later, Pete returned last thing in the day to use the remaining minutes of sunlight to bust out the problem.

Pete clamping with the utmost determination on The Roots (V8)

Last thing problem for the day was a V6 Dyno off two pockets to a sloper. We all got the team ascent of this, and shortly after Sebastian also sent a V8 arete which was originally put up by Julian Saunders. Due to no one having any idea what this is called we have named it the The Vandal. You can find it just around the corner from Captain Sassy Pants.

Wuthering Heights Development

After most people had already thrashed themselves on Saturday there was an agreeance on Sunday that it was high time we headed back up to Wuthering Heights. If you're sick of getting spanked on the same old problems, or are looking for some first ascents, then this is the place to be.

Pete showing us all his defying gravity on a new sit start called Levitation (V6)

After warming up we chucking our guns into second gear and Derek showed us a problem called Hanso lonzo(V6) which involves a hop to a sloper than some slapping up a small layback. After several attempts I pulled the crux and got to the slabby top. Now, what Derek forgot to mention to me was that they top of this problem was about 7m off the deck and involved a poorly cleaned mossy slab with next to no hand holds bar a small finger crack - Joy! I eventually worked up the courage to top the problem out (even though I could see a very small Jase dragging the mat off to try the next problem). The descent also provided some fun.

After lunch Derek and Pete were hard at work on some new problems that they spied. Pete's involved cranking of a no-handed kneebar to a couple of crimps(V7) while Derek's involved a mantle to dyno (if you're short ;-)) to mantle(V4).

Derek on a new problem(V7) spied by Pete

Towards the afternoon, we found a couple of highballs originally found by Matt Pearson. The first was a 6m high layback to VERY slopey top. This prompted a multi-layered arrangement of about 6 mats. Which took a beating as almost everyone fell from the top. Derek eventually styled his was up to show us how it's done.

Paul braving the top on this V4 highball

Next we set to work on the Death Mantle. Which involved some carefuly foot work to gain a couple of slopers, then chucking your foot over your head and trying not to take too much notice of the 4m between you and your spotters - don't slip!

Death Mantle - part 1

Death Mantle - part 2

In other news, Stu K could be seen up at Flock Hill on sunday dealing to some unfinished business with Captain Sassypants(V8) Nice one Stu!

Wuthering Heights Guide

Work in progress...

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Brutus	V9		Powerful undercling to slopers

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Johnny Mo	V8		Powerful prow

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Bloodlust	V7		Crimps
Origami	V7		Smeary slab
Pete's Kneebar	V7		1 + 1 = ?
The White Line	V7		Slap-foo your way up the arete

Climb	Grade	Rating	Description
Small Fry	V6		Pull on to slopers

Ancient Arts Arete

Derek on Ancient Arts Arete (V11) at Wuthering Heights.

Not too much news to report from the weekend. Most people were still licking thier wounds from the bouldering/dyno comp at the Roxx the night before. For more info take a look at Stu's report on the nights action.

After a late start Sebastian, Jase and I headed up to the Split Apple field at Flock Hill. After warming up on a few classics we found a bunch of new(ish) problems. Take a look at the Flock Hill Guide for more info. The highlight of the day was some progress by Sebastian on an old prow spied and brushed by JP back in the day that we believe still remains a project. The stand start went at about V8 and the sit start looks like it will go at about V10. Stay tuned for more details...