Preliminary NBS Results
While Jamie chills for a couple of days to recover from the madhouse of events that was the National Bouldering Series 2007, I thought I'd post a few of the results from the final round. Disclaimer: These results are by no means complete and may not even be totally accurate. They are composed from a vague memory that was partially distorted from drinking beer and not really paying attention at the time. I apologise in advance for any mistakes.
The day went off without any hiccups and a great time was had by all. Despite high temps and less than ideal conditions some managed to still tick off a few of the harder problems before the day came to an end. Despite Connie and Andrea "Jellybean" Barrueto both starting the comp around lunchtime, they both still crushed the opposition in the women's recreational division sending 51 problems each. The women's expert division was easily won by Mayan with Terezka coming in at second place. As for the men's expert division, Jan was thwarted from a clean sweep of the series due to local knowledge coming up trumps on the day. The category was won by, well...me, with Jan coming in at second place. Even with spending most of the day filming Stuart Kurth pulled out several V8 and V9 flashes, only put 5 climbs on his scorecard and still managed to secure third place. Nice one bro!
As for the series results, it was czeck city on the highest part of the podium as Yan and Terezka both won the overall expert Division. Liz came in second in the female expert, while Myself and James Morris placed second and third in the men's.
I'd also like to give a big shout out to Jamie, who's early mornings and weekends have been sacrificed for the past few months so we can all take part in the best outdoor competition in the country. Good job!!!
6 comments:
word is that the czech guy was a fraud. didn't do half the stuff he said he did. is that true?
I don't know, but if so, gimme my trophy back!
I spent a day climbing with Jan (Honza) at Turakirae Head, and in my opinion he was clearly the strongest of all the climbers who competed in all the comps.
Some of the lads like Pete may have good power or are more dynamic which helps for some problems but Jan has stronger fingers and better technique due to climbing since very young.
I wasn’t at the comps so I don’t know exactly what happened. But I know there’s been a lot of bitching and talking behind backs. If Jan had dabbed or didn’t understand the eliminate rules at Baring Head and Jardines why didn’t anyone tell him? The Czechs said they had never experienced bouldering like that before. If someone has something to say, say it to him.
I think some things have gotten out of perspective, example: Pete saw Jan spend 1 hour mucking around Toast V7 and thought ‘far out that’s not very strong’ but the reality is Jan flashed it and then spent an hour doing a new variation V9.
I’m not expressing a biased view, all I can say is he is more than capable of having climbed what he said he did and if there was a misunderstanding regarding the rules than those who saw him or are concerned have not followed this through in the best way by having not talked to him.
Ivan
- anonymous should stick to constructive comments and leave a name, instead of doing back handed stirring
Hi guys, i thing i know Jan a little bit. I can tell u, i am sure, he climbed all the stuff he says. He is an experienced climber with extremely good international results (f.e.: 3. in youth world championship and many more). He doesnt need to cheat, he just climbs. If you doubt, go and ask him directly or try to climb some of his problems.
I believe that Jan should be innocent UNTIL proven guilty. I know that some people do not share the same view, but unless anyone has any actual proof, perhaps we should just leave it at that.
He climbed everything he said he did at the waitomo comp and by the way he did frantic (V8) on his second go after only just slipping off on the last move while having holds pointed out to him i have no doubt after looking him up on the ISFC website and seeing his accomplishments that he did everything he said he did. His classic comment after frantic was "Is there anything harder??" Amazing climber to watch and the fact a non local took out essentially a "repeating" competition series is awesome.
And yes Ivan if people are going to bag others they should at least have the balls to leave there name.
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